I'm trying to diagnose a 2002 Ford Focus with a zetec engine.

Car: Ford, Focus, 2002, 16 valve zetec - Back to Fix-It - Ford Repair Manuals

Q.I'm trying to diagnose a 2002 Ford Focus with a zetec engine. It stalled and the owner replaced the fuel pump. It fires up but still hard to start and when it starts it has a rough idle and sometimes it won't even idle. When engine is running on park, when you try to rev it up it stalls.
The owner also replaced the spark plug and wires and also the mass airflow sensor. I checked the timing to make sure that the belt did not jump and timing belt is aligned properly. After replacing the fuel pump and before replacing the spark plug and wires and air flow sensor the owner said that it pulled a code P1132. They erased the code and now no code at all will come up. I checked the spark plugs and they are all black and not burning good. One had suggested that there might be a leak from the intake manifold gasket and one guy suggested that the injectors are bad. Please help me diagnose the problem.

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More Info required When you can get it to idle, what is the engine vacuum at?

Addition I have the valve cover out because I was checking the timing, I will put it back and try to start it and get a vacuum reading, then I will let you know.

Answer While we have the valve cover off, are you sure you don't need a diagram of the timing marks?
If the engine vacuum is low, I am going to point you back to the valve timing. SO while its off, lets be darn sure the marks are dead on. Remember, because this motor is a Ztec, this has variable cam timing. If the exhaust cam (the one that the solenoid changes timing.. I believe if I remember correctly its the exhaust cam and not the intake cam) is off at all due to the Ztec solenoid, this will cause the engine vacuum to be extremely low and will cause this problem. It happens all the time.
But if you are sure.. we can move on.

Addition ok, sorry for the delay. I got back into it and the vacuum reading is steady at 10.
If I remember right that seems to be pointing to timing problem. Yes, I might need the diagram of timing marks. When I tried starting it, it was hard to start but eventually it starts but rough idle. I cannot find marks on the crank pulley, so what i did is to bring the #1 piston to top position and looked at the position of the cams.
At the back of the camshaft, both groove are lined up properly, but i noticed that the camshaft gears are not positioned the same (as to comapare with japanese cars when you line up their timing both camshaft gear gear sits at the same position.

Answer Ok.. YES.. I would start by checking the valve timing again. Just be sure that the exhaust is not plugged up. Here are the diagrams of your valve timing.
You are actually supposed to use special tools to line this motor up. See pictures.

Addition I bought the tool to make sure the timing are aligned. I just got them this afternoon. I checked and when the top are lined up the crank timing is just a little to the left (about half a tooth) I cannot find where the dowell pin goes. If the timing is right and the exhaust is not plug up, what is the next thing to do? Can you show me where the pin threads in the block so I can re-check it again in the morning? Don't worry I will pay you with this once we solve the problem, just be patient with me.

Answer Which pulley are you talking about with the dowel pin? One of the camshafts? Which camshaft.. the intake or the exhaust?
Or are you talking about the crankshaft pulley and harmonic balancer?
If the timing is dead on, I would check to see if the Ztec solenoid is stuck some how advancing or retarding the camshaft. Even if the marks line up, that particular camshaft could be too far advanced or too far retarded because of the Ztec solenoid.

Addition The pin that came with the tool, I believe that is use for the crankshaft when lining up the timing, but i can't find where it threads in. When you said the ztec solenoid being stuck, Which one is the ztec solenoid? There is also a cam position sensor, will that happen to be the ztec solenoid you are pertaining to? I wish it gives me a code but it doesn't come out with any.

More Info required DO you have access to a scan tool that can read live data?

Addition the scan tool that i have is "Actron CP9180" Im not sure if it is equip with that, I think it is. I will find out.
What will I be checking out?

Answer I want to read the baro or barometric pressure.

Addition ok, i will find out. Give me time then i get back to you.

Answer You bet! I will be waiting!

Answer By the way.. here is a picture of the variable valve timing solenoid.
It sits on the top of the valve cover gasket and goes into the head.
The VCT solenoid valve (Figure 128) is an integral part of the VCT system. The solenoid valve controls the flow of engine oil to the variable cam timing unit assembly. As the PCM duty cycles the solenoid valve, oil is allowed to flow to the VCT unit assembly and advance or retard the cam timing.

There is also a TSB for this problem. Here it is.
Article No.
03-6-7
03/31/03
DRIVEABILITY - MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP
(MIL) ILLUMINATED - DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLES
CODES (DTCS) P1381/P0011 AND/OR P1383/P0012 -
ROUGH IDLE, REDUCED POWER CONDITION,
AND/OR STALL AT IDLE - FOCUS SVT MODEL ONLY
FORD:
2002-2003 FOCUS
ISSUE
Some SVT Focus vehicles may exhibit the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) illuminated with Diagnostic Troubles codes (DTCs) P1381/P0011 Variable Cam Timing over-advanced (Bank 1) and/or P1383/P0012 Variable Cam Timing over-retarded (Bank 1) stored in memory. The vehicle may also exhibit a rough idle, reduced power condition, and/or stall at idle. This may be caused by:
^ Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) control system stuck
^ Intake camshaft CMP trigger wheel mispositioned
or loose
^ Engine Cam timing incorrect
^ Electrical conditions
ACTION
Refer to the following Service Procedure to verify the Cam Timing, Intake Camshaft CMP Trigger wheel position, and VCT solenoid operation, then service as necessary.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Verify camshaft timing.

a. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise so that the second timing mark in rotation on the crankshaft damper is aligned with the raised mark on the oil pan (Figure 1).

b. Locate timing peg installation hole, remove plug, and install TDC timing peg t6ol T97P-6000-A (Global Number 303-574) (Figure 2) with timing peg installed verify the crankshaft will not rotate in a clockwise direction.
c. Remove Engine Camshaft Cover and Timing Cover, per Workshop Manual Section 303-O1C - Timing Belt, perform only the steps of the procedure that are necessary to remove the camshaft cover and timing cover.
NOTE IN ORDER TO REMOVE THE TIMING COVER IT IS NECESSARY TO REMOVE THE WATER PUMP PULLEY AND ACCESSORY DRIVE IDLER PULLEY AFTER REMOVING THE CRANKSHAFT DAMPENER.
d. Attempt to install the Camshaft Alignment Timing Tool T94P-6256-CH (Global Number 303-465), into the slots in the rear of the camshafts.
(1) If the alignment tool does insert into the slots, Engine Base Timing is correct. Proceed to Step 2.
(2) If the alignment tool does not insert into the slots, the Base Engine Timing may be incorrect, proceed to Step 1e.
e. Remove the crankshaft timing peg.
f. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise one revolution.
g. Reinstall the timing peg, verify that the engine will not rotate in a clockwise direction.
h. Attempt to install the Camshaft Alignment tool. If the Camshaft Alignment tool will now insert, engine timing is correct proceed to Step 2.
i. If the alignment tool will not insert, then base engine timing is off. Reset camshaft timing per Workshop Manual section 303-01C - Timing belt, perform only the steps of the procedure that are necessary to reset the camshaft timing - Continue to Step 3.
NOTE TO AVOID VALVE DAMAGE ROTATE THE CRANKSHAFT COUNTERCLOCKWISE 1/3 OF A TURN, TO LOCATE ALL CYLINDERS OFF OF TDC, BEFORE LOOSENING THE CAMSHAFT PULLEY RETAINING BOLTS, OR USE AN OPEN ENDED WRENCH TO PREVENT THE CAMSHAFT FROM ROTATING AFTER THE BOLTS ARE LOOSENED.

2. Inspect the intake camshaft position sensor trigger wheel alignment. With camshaft alignment tool, and crank timing peg installed, there should be 15-16 mm between the top edge of the CMP sensor and the CMP trigger wheel tooth (Figures 3 and 4).
a. If trigger wheel alignment does not appear to be correct, replace the intake camshaft. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-01C - Camshafts.
b. If trigger wheel alignment does appear correct, verify VCT Solenoid Wiring and connections. If OK, replace the VCT Solenoid assembly, torque the VCT Solenoid retainer bolt to 88 Lb-in. (10 N. M).
3. Reassemble. Refer to Workshop Manual Section 303-01C - Timing Belt, perform only the steps of this procedure that are necessary to reassemble the engine.
NOTE WHEN TORQUING THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST CAMSHAFT PULLEYS IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO USE LOCKING PLIERS TO INSURE THE CAMS DO NOT MOVE. ALSO REMOVE THE CAMSHAFT ALIGNMENT BAR DURING THIS PROCEDURE TO PREVENT CAMSHAFT BREAKAGE.
NOTE REINSTALL THE WATER PUMP PULLEY, TORQUE BOLTS TO 18 Lb-ft (25 N. M) AND ACCESSORY DRIVE IDLER PULLEY, TORQUE BOLT TO 29 Lb-ft (40 N. M) AFTER REINSTALLING THE TIMING COVER AND BEFORE THE CRANKSHAFT DAMPENER.
4. Start the engine and monitor VCTADVERR PID using WDS, or CAMERR PID using NGS Tester, the PID should equal 0 +/- degree at idle.

AdditionAmedee.. I tried to drive the vehicle yesterday but it keeps stalling and almost didn't made it back. This morning I tried to get a reading while I can get it on idle and these are the readings that I get, I don't know if it will help: Fuel Pressure - 48 to 57 KPAG when it's on good idle 28 to 42 KPAG when it starts stalling down ABSLT TPS% - 18.0 CALC. LOAD% - 38.0 MAF FLOW GR/SE - 1.77 to 2.38 IGN ADV. - 26.0 to 27.0 on a good idle 19.0 to 36.0 on eratic idle ST FTRM1% - 7.8% LT FTRM1% - 21.7% Fuel Sys 1 = closed Fuel sys 2 = n/a )2 S11 v = 0.025 It seems like it will start easier when it's cold and then when it warms up the idle goes up and down and then wnating to stall until it stalls. I would re-start it again and it cranks but seems like there is no fuel going in; so what I do, I turn the ignition on and then off and then on again until I hear the fuel pump stops (do that for 3 times) and then it will start but with a rough idle. I can see where the camshaft sensor is but I can't find the VTC Solenoid Valve. It says in your article that it sits on top of the valve cover gasket and goes into the head. I don't see that. This is the VIN# 3FAFP31332R136115. I'm not sure if this has one. Please verify.

Answer The long term fuel trim is definitely off!
This solenoid should be right on top of the valve cover is it has one.

Addition There is no solenoid on top of the valve cover. What do you mean by Long term fuel trim being off? SO, is that the problem?

Answer The only thing I can see from what you provided me with is this number LT FTRM1% - 21.7%. It is saying that the long term fuel trim is negative 21 %
This is due to the same fact that you have low engine vacuum.

Addition By the way, I did a compression test on all 4 cylinders yesterday and all of them are measuring 150. The owner want me to replace the timing belt, but I know that it will not solve the problem. With your experience, you think the timing belt is stretched and causes the timing to be off? What will be the next move to determine the cause of the low engine vacuum? How will I test the camshaft position sensor if it is working or not? By the way the vehicle has 141,000 miles on it, if that would help.

Answer Ford does not provide a cranking pressure specification, only an acceptable range.
The compression pressures are considered within specification if the lowest reading cylinder is within 75% of the highest reading.
The use of the new variable camshaft timing optimizes the combustion procedure by improving gas exchange in the cylinders. As a result of this exhaust emissions regulations can be met without the use of a pulse air system or exhaust gas recirculation system (EGR system).
The mechanical principles behind variable camshaft timing (VCT) are relatively simple. The valve timing for the opening and closing of the exhaust valves is influenced by a hydraulic cylinder which is riveted to the timing sprocket. This cylinder connects the timing pulley with the camshaft through a hydraulic piston. The hydraulic piston is guided along its axis by the helical gears on the exhaust camshaft and the hydraulic cylinder. The helical gear transfers the up and down motion. As the timing sprocket is fixed in place by the timing belt, the position of the exhaust camshaft is rotated in relation to the timing sprocket, and the exhaust valve timing is therefore adjusted. The hydraulic piston is moved by supplying pressurized engine oil from the engine oil circuit to both pressure chambers of the hydraulic cylinder. The engine management system controls a solenoid valve which in turn supplies the pressurized oil to the pressure chambers.
The return spring ensures the hydraulic piston goes back towards its original position when the engine is switched off.
The VCT unit must be in its original position before the valve timing can be adjusted. Turn the exhaust camshaft in the normal direction of the engine rotation to bring the VCT unit to its original position. When doing this the crankshaft must not be turned.
Here is a picture of your variable camshaft and actuator/solenid (top between the two sprockets)

Answer In my opinion, I would not replace the timing belt. If the engine vacuum is still extremely low with the exhaust dropped, then it is going to be valve timing. THis solenoid on top goes bad and causes the camshaft to be too far retarded or advanced causing this problem you are having.
I would start by replacing this solenoid. You might have to replace the part thats on the cam sprocket itself.

Addition I replaced the camp position sensor and replaced the timing belt because the owner wants it since its open already. I started it and it ran on idle longer before it starts cutting off. The vacuum is now down to 7-8. There is no VTC solenoid in this engine. If there is, its not where you told me it is. Even with the exhaust off it still read 10 on engine vacuum. Now that i've been running it on idle for more than 10 minutes the vacuum went down to 7-8. I'm looking for vacuum leak but can't find one. Do you think if the intake manifold gasket is leaking that would cost that problem?

Addition I've been giving you false info on the vacuum. I was hooking the tester on top of the valve cover. I finally hooked it up in one of the lines by the intake, and its reading 18-19 The idle is still rough though, like it wants to cut off.

More Info required HA! Excellent!
This is much better! NOw that we know the engine vacuum is up to par, we are just looking at a stalling issue. We are now talking a whole different ball game. We need to look at different things under the hood that can cause this stalling issue.
Let me ask you this, does the engine have plenty of power under full throttle or even when accelerating? Or is the issue just at idle? Is the idle unstable? WHat is the engine rpm at when idling? Has this code 1132 come back yet or any other codes?

Addition Engine Looses power when going full throttle. Idle is unstable. Lots of time when it's cold idle is steady at about 1200 rpm and when engine starts to warm up idle goes down to 800-900 rpm and then starts rough idle after that. When you accelerate the throttle by hand it revs up good sometimes and most of the time it chokes and looses power. No codes coming up. When engine is warm it doesn't want to idle anymore, consistently cuts off.

Answer Ok..
Here is some information on the trouble code you had present in your computer in the past. I think this might be related. Also, I have included some other information for you as well.
Diagnostic code p1132
Reset adaptive strategy by disconnecting the battery for about 10 minutes. This resets all the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) learned values, including long term fuel trim.
Monitor the front O2 sensor (bank 1 sensor 1), long term fuel trim and short term fuel trim readings, and monitor fuel pressure both on the scan data and an actual fuel pressure gauge.
If the fuel pressure readings are normal, the fuel trim readings go to high (double digit) positive numbers, but the O2 sensor reading is staying to the rich side (above 0.6 volts), replace the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
If the actual fuel pressure reading is higher than the scan tool fuel pressure reading, replace the Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) sensor.
Potential Causes: Defective Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) Sensor
Defective Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Tips: There is usually a difference between the Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) sensor reading on the scan data and the actual fuel pressure reading, depending on the amount of engine vacuum, but the scan tool reading is normally HIGHER than the actual reading. This has to do with the vacuum to the FRP sensor. At idle, the scan tool reading is typically about 8 PSI higher than the actual reading. If the vacuum line is disconnected from the FRP sensor, the readings should equalize within 2 PSI.
Connect a voltmeter to the O2 output wire and check the actual voltage. Give it a vacuum leak and add fuel to make sure the O2 reacts correctly. Replace the O2 Sensor as needed.
Potential Causes: Harness
Malfunctioning O2 Sensor
Check the Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) sensor voltage on the scanner and at the sensor on the White/Green (WH/GN) wire. The voltage should read about 2.8v@ 40 PSI.
If the voltage agrees with the 40 PSI reading on the scanner, but the actual pressure is 80 PSI, check the reference voltage (VREF) on the Yellow/Green (YE/GN) wire and the ground on the Brown/Green (BR/GN) wire.
If the VREF and ground are OK, but the output of the sensor is incorrect, replace the FRP sensor and retest.
Potential Causes: Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) Sensor
Harness
Tips: It is normal for the actual pressure with a gauge to read about 10 PSI less than what the scanner shows for fuel rail pressure

Also,
You might have an air or a vacuum leak. This is very common! Open the hood and listen for a hissing sound when the engine is running.
Unmetered air can enter the engine through a vacuum leak, a dirty airflow sensor that is not reading airflow Acurately, an EGR valve is not closing and is leaking exhaust into the intake manifold, an EGR valve that is allowing too much flow.
If it is hard to pinpoint take some brake cleaner or starting fluid around the intake manifold and vacuum lines and see if the engine stumbles or if the idle is affected. Be extremely careful when doing this!
Also, your throttle body may be carboned up and need to be cleaned! This can cause all sorts of idle and hesitation problems. This is caused by the throttle plate not seating properly. The First thing i would do is clean out the throttle body with some throttle plate and intake cleaner and a small brush. Another common cause would be the Idle Air Control motor. This is very common on older cars. The IAC motor gets lazy and cant keep up with the fast idle changes. Also when the IAC motor is out, I rec to check the passages for carbon build up. If they are plugged they need to be cleaned out.
Check for the following conditions:
Poor connection at PCM or IAC motor. Inspect harness connectors for backed out terminals, improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, and poor terminal to wire connection.
Damaged harness. Inspect the wiring harness for damage.
Restricted air intake system. Check for a possible collapsed air intake duct, restricted air filter element, or foreign objects blocking the air intake system.
Throttle body. Check for objects blocking the IAC passage or throttle bore, excessive deposits in the IAC passage and on the IAC pintle, and excessive deposits in the throttle bore and on the throttle plate. Check for a sticking throttle plate. Also inspect the IAC passage for deposits or objects which will not allow the IAC pintle to fully extend.
Vacuum leak. Check for a condition that causes a vacuum leak, such as disconnected or damaged hoses, leaks at EGR valve and EGR pipe to intake manifold, leaks at throttle body, faulty or incorrectly installed PCV valve, leaks at intake manifold brake booster hose disconnected, oil filler cap, oil level indicator loose or missing, etc..
In addition, you could have a bad mass air flow sensor. Or the snorkel from the mass air flow sensor to the throttle body could be ripped. Both are very common and can cause you vehicle to loose power along with many other drive ability issues. First look for cracks or rips or anywhere air can enter the engine that is not accounted for by the mass air flow sensor. Next comes the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. This is a very important sensor input to the computer. It uses a hot wire sensing element to measure the amount of air entering the engine. The MAF sensor then outputs an analog voltage signal to the PCM proportional to the intake air mass. The PCM calculates the required fuel injector pulse width in order to provide the desired air/fuel ratio. If the sensor is bad than this air/fuel ratio will be off causing severe performance issues. In extreme cases, I have seen these two problems cause a no start condition. This input can also be used in determining transmission Electronic Pressure Control, shift and torque converter clutch scheduling. The check engine light may even pop on if the sensor is bad, the snorkel is ripped or a tube has fallen off. This will result in a lean condition.

Addition According to the owner, the code P1132 came up before and he replaced the Mass Airflow Sensor and the spark plugs and wires, and then he had the code erased. It's not coming up now. What is P1132 means?

Answer

Addition i cleaned the throttle body and the TPS sensor. It idles better on fresh start, still running right now after 10 minutes of idle. I can hear a hissing sound behind the throttle body (looks like a solenoid that if I follow the vacuum hose it is connected to a round part that is connected to the passenger side firewall (part#PA66-GF33) What is that part behind the throttle body and what is that part where it goes (connected to the firewall)?

Answer WOW!
Sounds like you have one heck of a vacuum leak!
Check the PCV LINE AT THE BACK OF INTAKE. THE RUBER ELBOW ROTS AWAY CAUSING A MAJOR VACUUM LEAK RIGHT WERE YOU ARE DESCRIBING!

Addition rubber elbows are good but that part that is above the rubber elbow is the one leaking bad. Hissing noise coming out from it. That part is above the rubber elbows, first part you will see when you look at the back of throttle body from the top. The hose that is connected to it go to the black round canister by the passenger side firewall. How do I fix that leak? Or does that part need to be replace? What do you call that canister part by the firewall where the hose is connected to?

Answer Usually if the part is bad, it needs to be replaced.
Can you upload a picture?

Addition how do i upload picture here? Or if u can give me your email address i think I can send it to you quicker.

Answer Just take a picture and scan it or upload it into your computer and when you reply back to me, just hit the picture button on the top of the tool. Its the green picture with the tree.

Answer 1. Monitor the STFT reading on the scan tool when attempting to nurse an additional fuel supply around the gaskets, Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve or other possible vacuum areas.
2. If the STFT can be forced down with the presence of added fuel at any point on the engine, the leak area has been isolated.
3. Check the fuel injector pulse width. Normal hot curb idle pulse width on this engine should indicate to be 3.3-3.7 ms.
4. Check fuel pressure. With the vacuum line disconnected at the Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) sensor, the pressure reading on the gauge should match the reading shown on the scan tool.
5. Check the dead-head output pressure of the fuel pump by grounding the Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) pin 3 circuit through a jumper wire with the ignition key in the run position. Fuel pressure should increase to 70(+) PSI.
Potential Causes: Leaking Engine Vacuum
Contaminated Fuel Injectors
Fuel Pump
Incorrect Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve Flow Rate

Addition I'm trying to upload 3 photos but I dont think it will let me. Is there a way you can view the photo's? That part that I gave you a part#PA66-GF33..what is that part called, there is also a valve under that, what is the use for that valve? I wish I can send you the photo (for sure there is an engine vacuum leak)

Answer I am not sure about the part. Be sure the pictures are a jpeg or a GIF.

Addition they are on jpeg. There is no option in my screen to upload pictures. I tried to copy and paste it or drag it but no luck. I'll see.

Answer I have circled the upload picture button.

Addition Click on these links for the photos: What do you call this part where the hose from the Throttle body is connected? Http://i16.photobucket. Com/albums/b32/euphoniuz/IMG_0002gif. Gif This is where it is leaking vacuum: http://i16.photobucket. Com/albums/b32/euphoniuz/IMG_0006R. Jpg This is the hose: http://i16.photobucket. Com/albums/b32/euphoniuz/IMG_0014R. Jpg I'm still trying to solve this vacuum leak from the hose (I believe that the O-ring inside is worn out - I tried replacing it with other o-rings but i can't find the correct size, so i'm going to the dealership)

Answer I tried looking at each one, but it says this image has been removed or deleted.

Addition I tried it on two computers and the links work, please try it again

Answer HA!
YES! It worked!
THis is for the evap system.
Are these hoses leaking?

Addition yes, the hoses are leaking. I heard that ford dealership is asking about $143.00 on the hose. I'm trying to see if replacing the O-Ring will work. THat is where the hissing sound is coming from. I put an O-ring on it and applied dielectric grease to kinda seal it, the idle was good for about 1o minutes and when it started hissing again then the idle started going rough again. What is your take on that? I'm hoping I can get the right size of O-ring that would go on it.

Answer Well, if this is truly the case, because these hoses are simply for evap purposes only, it would not hurt to plug them off somehow or remove them and plug up the whole the that hoses go to and see if the idle problem is all fixed. If this is the case, then you know that this is your problem. It sounds like you have already kind of done this. ANd if this is so, then yes, the part or parts that are leaking are bad and will need to be replaced.
If you are concerned about the cost, then I would simply go to a junk yard and get these parts off of a vehicle that is the same year make and model as yours and I would replace your faulty parts with the ones from the junk yard.

AdditionAmedee.. OK here's an update. I think ur right on that leak. It's not the one causing the problem.
THere's something else. Here is an update of the reading from scanner: ABSLT TPS% 18.4 ENGINE RPM 729 CALC LOAD % 32.9 MAF FLOW GR/SE 1.99 COOLANT TEMP 170 IGNITION ADV DE 26.5 ST FTRM1 % -18.8 LT FTRM1 % -8.0 FUEL PRESSURE KPAG 54 ST FTRM11 % -17.4 02S12 V 0.050 Do you still think that it has something to do with injectors? Or something else. Just refresh me on what to do next. Thank you Amedee for being patient with this, and sorry if I don't respond back to you right away, because i do this in between my job.

More Info required
Not a problem!
When these readings were taken from the scanner, was this at idle or is this from the freeze frame?
Refresh my memory. We have good engine vacuum correct?
Do we have plenty of power under full throttle?
How does it idle?

Addition We have good engine vacuum; this reading was taken on idle; we have power on full throttle when the idle is good which is usually in the first 10 to 15 minutes of idle. When engine gets warm, the idle starts going rough and then stalls. When you full throttle it there is power but most of the time it chokes and u let go of the throttle so it won't stall and then full throttle it again then it has power. I tried driving the vehicle and when it is on cruise it wants to stall and then picks up a little bit and then just stalls. When it stalls it won't start right away. I usually turn the ignition on and off, kinda like try to prime it with fuel, then it starts, but idles rough. That's the best I can describe it.

More Info required Ok..Thanks for the refresh!
And still no codes in the computer?
WHat is the fuel pressure at? DOes fuel pressure leak down when the key is turned off?
DId you say that the baro reading was low on your scanner?

Answer I think I may have sent this over already, but I just want to be sure that you got this. This is information on the code that was in the computer previously.
P1131
Verify the air filter is the correct one and properly installed. Also be sure it is not restricted or damaged in any way.
If the air filter is OK, try cleaning the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor and the driving the vehicle to relearn the BARO reading. If the reading returns to normal, suspect the problem is resolved.
If the BARO reading stays low, verify there are no problems with the engine breathing such as an air inlet restriction or restricted exhaust. Also be sure the valve timing is OK. If all OK, suspect a faulty MAF sensor.
Potential Causes: Improperly Installed Air Filter
Airflow - Engine breathing problem.
Defective Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
Dirty Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
1. Check the output of the #11 Oxygen (O2) sensor as the engine RPM is revved up and down to determine if the sensor voltage is changing at all.
2. If the sensor voltage has some movement, force the engine rich with added fuel such as propane or acetylene allowed to ingest into the intake at the air cleaner assembly. This should cause the O2 sensor input reading to increase to greater than 900 millivolts (mV).
3. If the sensor does not react quickly or will not reach the value, replace the O2 sensor.
4. If the sensor reacts quickly and will reach a high output value, inspect the wiring and connection of the sensor to verify it is not making intermittent connection and that the circuits are not chafing to ground.
5. If the sensor voltage does not change at all when revving the engine up and down, disconnect the sensor and connect a Digital Volt-Ohm Meter (DVOM) to the Black (BK) wire of the sensor and check its output when forcing the engine rich. If the sensor output is still low, replace the sensor.
Potential Causes: Circuit
Oxygen (O2) Sensor
1. Check the output of the lead oxygen sensor by forcing the engine rich with added fuel to verify that the sensor output reading will jump to a high value of 09-1.0 volt.
2. If the sensor does not respond to added fuel, replace it.
3. If the sensor responds to added fuel, monitor the Short Term Fuel Trim and Long Term Fuel Trim readings at idle to determine if the engine is showing evidence of lean running indicated by double digit positive readings when the rough running condition occurs.
4. If the Short Term Fuel Trim readings do show to be high, attempt to identify any potential vacuum leak issue by introducing propane, carburetor cleaner, etc near any potential vacuum leak area and look for the Short Term Fuel Trim reading to drop dramatically, pinpointing the area of the leak.
Pinch vacuum lines closed which may feed a leaking component such as the heating-ventilation air conditioning system vacuum tank, the brake booster etc. While monitoring fuel trim readings to see if they drop.
5. Check the state of tune-up parts of the engine including spark plug gap, spark output at the spark plug wire ends, etc. And service the components as necessary. Inspect the color and condition of the spark plugs for evidence of rich or lean running.
6. If the state of tune-up parts appear to be ok and the Powertrain Control Module is indicating a lean operating condition but no vacuum leaks are evident, check the fuel injector pulse width. A normal pulse width at idle should indicate a reading of 3.3-3.7 milliseconds.
7. If fuel injector pulse width is high, clean the fuel injectors suspecting a contamination issue.
Potential Causes:
Contaminated Fuel Injector
Leaking Induction Air System
Leaking Induction Vacuum System
Oxygen (O2) Sensor
Oxygen (O2) Sensor Circuit
Oxygen (O2) Sensor Connector
Defective Tune-Up Parts

Addition Hi Amedee.. See if you can click on these links and view videos of the engine running on idle and how it stal ls:
Let me know what you think about it. What do you think about a possible ECM problem? That crossed my mind because i'm not even getting any codes from it.

Answer WOW!
THis sounds to me like an engine breathing problem. IT sounds like its suffocating! Either from a lack of fuel or a mechanical problem. Either valve timing issue or plugged cat. Honestly, I would recheck engine vacuum and fuel pressure and make sure the mass air flow sensor is reading correctly and make sure that there are no rips or cracks in the air snorkel after the mass air flow sensor.
Also, try removing the front o2 sensor and see if that helps!

Answer Honestly, its going to be a fuel delivery issue, (fuel pressure or injector pulse width problem based off of a bad input ot the computer like bad mass air flow sensor) or a engine breathing problem. Timing belt or plugged cat.

Addition Do you mean unplug the 02 sensor or unscrew it from the pipe? It can't be a valve timing and not a vacuum because i'm getting a reading of 20 in vacuum. I had removed the 3 bolts that connect to the cat and dropped it and run it like that, but the problem is the same. There are no rips or cracks in the air snorkel. The mass air flow sensor is new. If I will check the fuel pressure, there is no valve in the fuel line to connect the fuel pressure tester, do I remove the fuel line that connects to the fuel injector rail and measure it from there? Do you think it's nothing to do with ECM problem? It make sense if it is a fuel delivery problem. How do I check fuel injector pulse?

Answer Sorry for the delay!
YES.. unscrew the front o2 sensor and pull it out. But if you already dropped the exhaust and it still ran the same way, then that settles that.
I do not think its a ECM problem. If there is no fuel Schroeder valve to check fuel pressure, you will need ot tap into the fuel pressure line. You will be able to pick up this test equipment at any local auto parts stores. THe really only good way to check injector on time besides using a scope would be with a scan tool watching live data (injector pulse width).

Addition Hi Amedde..I'm back working on the car. I tap into the fule line and took a pressure reading. I'm reading zero on the pressure. All this time I was relying that because there is a new fuel pump that it is good. Now i'm going to replace the fuel pump, might have been a defective fuel pump the installed the first time. The tank is down now and i'm trying to figure out how to remove the pump. To remove the pump, do I turn that clockwise or counter clockwise?

Answer YES.. counter clockwise.
Just be sure the fuel pump is getting power to it before you replace it.

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I'm trying to diagnose a 2002 Ford Focus with a zetec engine.