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Car starts and runs for about 6 seconds then engine dies.

Car: Honda, Accord, 1994     -    Back to Fix-It    -    Honda Accord Repair Manuals

Q.Car starts and runs for about 6 seconds then engine dies. Car seems to think that it is in gear when it starts.

Answer The main relay on Honda vehicles often causes intermittent no-start and stall, especially when it's hot out. The problem begins when another component fails, like an ignition coil or an igniter.
Before isolating a no-start, you should know how Honda's main relay works. The relay is a dual relay, that means it's two relays in one. The first relay powers the computer and the other supplies power for the second relay. Once the computer is powered up, it will ground the second relay, which supplies power to the fuel pump. There are three conditions that will cause the computer to activate the fuel-pump part of the main relay:
When the key is turned on, the computer runs the fuel pump for two seconds.
When the starter is engaged.
When there's a tach signal to the computer.
Now, to diagnose a no-start. Before doing anything else, check for a computer reference voltage at any input sensor. An easy one to get to is the Throttle Position Sensor. If there are 5 volts there, then the computer has power and ground. If the computer isn't powered up, there won't be any spark or fuel until it is. Most no-starts are caused by little or no fuel, little or no spark, low compression or improper spark timing. These are all easy things to isolate if a component has failed, but it can be difficult to isolate a problem that fails intermittently.
Intermittent starting problems are usually spark or fuel related. Low compression doesn't come and go. To check for spark and fuel you will need a fuel pressure gauge, noid light set and spark tester. When the engine won't start, you want to be able to check the igniter, the coil, the injectors and the fuel pump.
Hook up your fuel pressure gauge either on the fuel rail or at the fuel filter banjo fitting with adapter. Connect the noid light to the injector Connector and the spark tester to one of the spark plug wires.
The most common time to have a no-start condition in a Honda is after a hot soak.(a short trip to the post office)The best way to duplicate this issue is to hold or wedge the throttle linkage to maintain about 2,500 rpm. Run it for about 20 minutes with the hood shut. Then return it to idle and shut it off. Let it sit for five to 10 minutes. Then attempt to restart the engine a few times. If the engine doesn't start, turn the key on. The check engine light will come on for two seconds and go out. You should see the fuel pressure go up and hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds. When the light goes out you should hear the main relay click. If it doesn't click, check terminal 7 on the main relay (fuel pump) for power and terminal 8 (computer) for good ground. If you have no power and you have ground, the main relay is bad.
If the main relay is bad on an Accord, there will be no fuel pressure. If it's bad on a Civic, there will be no power to the injectors or the fuel pump but you may not lose fuel pressure because the injectors can't open without power. When the main relay goes bad and there isn't any power at the injectors, the computer will set a code 16 for an injector failure because the computer doesn't read voltage on the groundside of the injector.
It's also possible that the car has more than one thing that is causing a hard start. You might have a bad ignition switch, a bad igniter and/ or a bad ignition coil.
If there's no spark, move the spark tester to the coil tower to rule out plug wires, cap or rotor. If there's no spark there either, the coil is shot.
To diagnose the igniter you really need a lab scope or scan tool with the same capability. The igniter terminal has a 10-volt reference. The computer will ground this terminal when it receives a pulse from the permanent magnet sensor in the distributor. The ignition coil produces spark when the igniter releases the ground from the negative terminal of the coil. By probing the igniter signal and coil negative the input and output of the igniter are being checked. If ignitor signal is good and nothing at the negative side of the coil, the igniter is bad. Clear as mud right?
The main relay will gives the same symptoms as a bad coil or igniter. The main relay, when it fails, usually does it when it's hot out. Hard starts evry now and then are no cause for great concern, but when the igniter or coil fails, the car won't start period until it cools down and that's a big problem.
If the car starts and continues to run, the main relay is okay.
Now remove the main relay.
Attach the battery positive terminal to the # 4 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the # 8 terminal of the main relay. Then check for continuity between the # 5 terminal and #7 terminal of the main relay.
If there is continuity, go on to step 3.
If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
Attach the battery positive terminal to the # 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the # 2 terminal of the main relay. Then check for continuity between the # 1 terminal and #3 terminal of the main relay.
If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
Attach the battery positive terminal to the #3 terminal and battery negative terminal to the # 8 terminal of the main relay. Then check that there is continuity between the # 5 terminal and #7 terminal of the main relay.
If there is continuity, the relay is OK
If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.

Addition Thank you for your answer. I have had my son who was driving the car give some more details to see if your suggestions would be the same. "I was driving home when all the dashlights went out and the car drove for a few minutes after that then died.
I sat on the side of the road and it wouldn't start while in park so I tried it in gear and it started but didnt run for very much longer maybe two minutes." After towing the car home, I replaced the fuel filter located in the engine compartment and had the alternator and battery checked at AutoZone.

Answer Yes. The same checks should be performed as I posted. I would have suggested that the charging system be checked after your last post, but I see it's been checked. I'm fairly certain the problem lies with the main relay or circuit.
Most any repair shop should be able to isolate this inside of an hour of diagnosis.

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